Oh! The Food!

Gourmets & Gourmands, Rejoice

List of Restaurants/Cusine

Early in Raleighs history as Wake Crossroads, its future as the capital city may well have been influenced by the presence of the taverns and ordinariesinns where people could buy a complete meal for a fixed price built by Isaac Hunter and Joel Lane to serve travelers making their way along central North Carolinas main north-south thoroughfare. Perhaps it is not surprising then, that a city whose earliest days were tied to hospitality and food should boast such a variety of new dining options as it undergoes a renaissance.

A few eateries established in the earlier heyday of Downtown Raleigh such as the 42 nd St. Oyster Bar, a former grocery store that served oysters to its customers, as well as the first draft beer in a frosted mug after the end of prohibition, or Clyde Coopers Barbecue, the place for eastern Carolina barbecued pork in Raleigh are still around. Yet the city is enjoying a restaurant boom as dining options, from Asian fusion to tapas, open not only in newly constructed buildings, but also in restored and renovated historic buildings intimately entwined in Raleighs past. These new restaurants help continue to draw people back Downtown and keep them returning critical to establishing Downtowns viability. And those eating establishments that can do so while preserving a bit of Downtown Raleighs past can capture a bit of that bygone era.

Craig Spitzer, Director of Hospitality Operations & Development for Empire Properties, a full-service real estate company deeply involved with redevelopment and historic preservation as well as new development projects in Downtown Raleigh, oversees Empire Eats, the company's restaurant interests, which include the highly popular and successful Duck and Dumpling, Nana’s Chophouse, Raleigh Times Bar, and the recently opened Morning Times — all of which are located in historic buildings renovated or restored by Empire Properties. Passionate about historic preservation, Spitzer stresses its importance in preserving “…the soul of the city…a sense of what Raleigh is and where it is going.” And while the restaurants are related, he stresses that “each is unique,” but all follow the same guiding principles of excellence in food and service quality and attention to detail.

Times Bar, located in the restored 1906 Raleigh Times building and the Morning Times coffee shop next door in one of Raleighs oldest retail buildings. Spitzer notes that The Raleigh TimesBar is the essence of the local quintessential watering hole serving great pub fare, once again focused on local ingredients even grinding the meat for the burgers as well as fine Belgian beers and craft-brewed domestic micros.

David Mao, chef owner and manager of the Duck and Dumpling, was born of Chinese parents and raised in Vietnam, and Spitzer describes the food served as “a melding of two cultures and cuisines — not your typical order-by-number Chinese food,” but Asian fusion that “showcases elegance beyond the dumpling,” which just happens to be one of Mao’s specialties. Located in a former furniture store from the ‘ 0s, the chic contemporary space of the restaurant overlooks the trees of Moore Square.

Nana’s Chophouse, an Italian-style chophouse across from the historic depot, opened three years ago in a restored meatpacking plant from 9 6. Chef Jaimy Waters’ seasonal menus focus on serving “creative interpretations of classic favorites” using the “finest regional ingredients available,” including the currently popular Cajun Snapper.

The newest offerings from Empire Eats are The Raleigh Times Bar, located in the restored 906 Raleigh Times building and the Morning Times coffee shop next door in one of Raleigh’s oldest retail buildings. Spitzer notes that The Raleigh Times Bar is the essence of the “local quintessential watering hole” serving great pub fare, once again focused on local ingredients — even grinding the meat for the burgers — as well as fine Belgian beers and “craft-brewed domestic micros.”

The attention to detail, says Spitzer, has provided vehicles for the cooks and chef to expand the menu. And Raleigh Times is so approachable. Youll see folks from all walks of life politicians, artists, bankers, actors, and production company members.

The Morning Times opened in August 2006 and is unique in that it is open seven days a week. The quickest and most casual of Empire Eats restaurants, it offers artisan-roasted coffees, H&H bagels delivered fresh from New York, Wi-Fi access and an art gallery upstairs presenting shows on a monthly basis; it has become an important stop during the gallery walk of Downtown Raleighs First Friday event.

Its become an unofficial meeting place, Spitzer says. Regulars start their day here. Some walk over from Boylan and Mordecai.

What Spitzer also finds significant is that Hargett Street is becoming a main thoroughfare. As Downtown Raleigh continues to grow, he believes the city will see more hometown talent setting itself apart through creativity, quality, and ingenuity to create destinations easily accessible in a very pedestrian-friendly city. And ample parking throughout Downtown in decks and street lots dispels the misperception that its difficult to find a space, making it attractive to those who dont live Downtown.

And while Spitzer is committed to the preservation of Downtown Raleighs past, he also emphasizes, that every historic building was once new. He is leading the development of Empire Properties newest project in the Fayetteville Street District, The Lafayette, which includes a world-class boutique hotel, fine-dining restaurant, and luxury condominiums.

The award-winning Second Empire Restaurant and Tavern, located in the historic 1879 Dodd- Hinsdale House, offers another example of the successful creation of a destination that preserves a bit of Downtown history and offers world-class cuisine and impeccable service. Having admired the home for years, and fearful that it would be demolished, Ted Reynolds and his family, at the suggestion of his daughter, Kim, the Second Empires owner and manager, bought the home.

The elegant restaurant opened nearly 10 years ago after a twoand-a-half-year-long renovation that restored the building to its former grandeur. Though Reynolds had no background in restaurant management, she says, early on we discovered early the importance of one of us being directly involved and being on-site on a daily basis. I quickly learned the restaurant business. I have always taken the approach to treat our guests as I would like to be treated, then to run the restaurant like a business. Using that approach and the skillful direction of Chef Daniel Schurr, the restaurant offers contemporary American cuisine. The main dinner menu changes monthly, using fresh seasonal ingredients from around the world, including squab, quail, Australian lamb, Hawaiian blue fin tuna, and North Carolina trout. The Tavern menu offers lighter, more casual yet still distinctive fare, including the Braised Rabbit and Cajun Sausage, Empire Seafood Paella, and the Pulled Chicken Pasta and Prime Beef Filet, standards on the menu since the restaurants opening. The Second Empire Restaurant and Tavern is the recipient of the AAA Four Diamond Award, the DiRoNa Award, and eight consecutive Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence.

In addition to an exquisite dining experience in three private dining rooms, the Second Empire hosts special events and weddings. “We have such a beautiful facility that offers so much more than a typical large open room,” says Reynolds. “It makes the perfect setting for a wedding reception, rehearsal dinner, or bridal shower.”

And the Chef’s Table, an opportunity to dine in the kitchen with Chef Schurr and his staff as they prepare a meal designed especially for two to eight guests, is becoming increasingly popular. Reynolds adds that, “… consistency and a strong desire on a daily basis to give our guests the very best dining experience, whether they come to see us one time a year or weekly” help to distinguish Second Empire Restaurant and Tavern from other restaurants.

For over 10 years, co-owners/chefs Holly Mohajer, a Raleigh native, and her husband Hamid have welcomed guests to Mo’s Diner, located across from Moore Square in a restored house from 1886. Guests may partake of a full-service dinner experience Tuesday through Saturday, amid the traditional décor of white tablecloths and toile curtains, with candlelight, flowers, and a fireplace in every room — perfect for that romantic date or anniversary. Four private dining rooms with three to five tables each allows seating for an intimate group or a party of up to 30 guests, and Mo’s also offers outside dining.

“We serve primarily American fare — mashed potatoes, corn on the cob, green beans, a chicken liver appetizer, panfried catfish, and the house specialty, rack of lamb,” says Mohajer. “Our market salad is just that. Whatever is available at the Moore Square Farmers Market goes into the salad.”

The restaurant’s location in the art district is an additional draw. “Mo’s is right on the free trolley route,” explains Mohajer. “You can go to dinner, catch the trolley, go to a performance at the nearby Progress Energy Center for the Performing Arts,and return after the show. ”The Exploris Museum & IMAX Theatre are also nearby, and activities in Moore Square, such as the free Saturday concerts and movies during the summer months, offer plenty of opportunities to dine at Mo’s.

For a restaurant experience that harkens back to a slightly different time period, Sullivan’s invites guests into a classic 1940s Chicago-style speakeasy, “with dark wood, low lighting, and the hustle and bustle of the time,” says John Hackett, manager. “We serve steaks and chops for dinner only, seven days a week. Our signature dish is a combination steak and lobster plate; guests choose the cut of steak from one of seven.” Diners may also enjoy a signature drink, the Knockout, “a pineapple martini,” Hackett explains.

In business for eight years, Sullivan’s serves up a generous side dish of live jazz featuring local bands seven days a week, from 5:00 to 12 midnight, and with four private dining rooms, this “speakeasy” is a great venue for large parties.

And as in any city’s restaurant market, there are those establishments—pioneers, so to speak—that have provided a consistently delicious dining experience while trying new things, keeping the successes and discarding the ideas that don’t work. The Irregardless Café is one such restaurant. For 33 years, chef/owner Arthur Gordon, referring to himself as “the old dog in the barn,” has made “an effort to exceed” his customers’ expectations. And while he doesn’t particularly care for a label on the cuisine he prepares, he does acknowledge his continued focus on fresh food—“real restaurant food made in the kitchen from local ingredients.” By refusing to compromise on quality and shopping at the farmers market every day, he can ensure that the food served tastes better, and he can pass along specials to his customers. Though the Irregardless Café started out as a vegetarian restaurant—it was the first to serve sprouts—Gordon serves fish, beef, and poultry selections. Other “firsts” for the Irregardless include becoming the first restaurant in North Carolina to go nonsmoking (in 1984), as well as the first in Raleigh to serve Sunday brunch and host live music, offering “sophisticated jazz by local bands, with dancing on Saturday nights.” By adhering to his philosophy that “we ought to be more careful about what we put in our bodies” and his emphasis on food prepared fresh, from locally produced ingredients, no doubt Gordon and the Irregardless Café will remain successful for years to come.

As one of the newest restaurants in town, Yancy’s! has enjoyed tremendous response since opening in November 2006. Serving a variety of Cajun and Creoleinspired food during a buffet breakfast and sit-down lunch and dinner seven days a week, Yancy’s! is “known for food and entertainment,” says owner Harvey Gaston Yancy. Included in the variety of menu items are “gumbo, jambalaya, brisket, and mouth-smacking ribs,” served inside or on the outside patio.

Born in Rocky Mount, NC, and trained as a chef in New Orleans, Yancy acknowledges that it is “good to be the early bird,” as many other buildings and restaurants are going up around his establishment as part of the Downtown Raleigh renaissance. But he also notes that the atmosphere of his restaurant is a great attraction. “We offer live entertainment seven days a week,” says Yancy, “including R&B, beach music, jazz, blues, and zydeco. We have a small dance floor and pack it with dancing to music from local, regional and national bands.”

Whether residents and visitors to Downtown seek an intimate fine-dining experience in a restored historic building, relaxed casual dining outside, or a quick bite on the way to work, Downtown’s diverse selection of eating establishments offers something for everyone, with a focus on fresh, high-quality food and personal attention. Grab a cup of coffee at Helios Coffee Company or one of the many other coffee shops throughout the city. Pick up a NY-style breakfast sandwich at Gandolfo’s in The Dawson on your morning walk to work. Enjoy wine by the glass and the European-inspired seasonal American food of Enoteca Vin, or toss back a cold one while sitting on the outside patio as you savor authentic Cajun and Creole specialties in the jazzinfused, laid-back atmosphere of Yancy’s! From the traditional Irish fare of Tir na nOg and tapas at the Blue Martini, to the ‘60s-inspired pizza offerings of the Mellow Mushroom, Downtown’s restaurants serve up hospitality and food that will ensure return visits.

And, as in the 1760s at Wake Crossroads, one can still find delicious meals for a fixed price, though there’s nothing “ordinary” about them.